Vintage 45 Carat No Heat Ruby, Diamond, and Pearl Cuff Choker Necklace

Vintage GRS-certified 45.51 carat no heat pear-shaped cabochon natural ruby cuff choker necklace. Retro, circa 1960-70. Featuring a massive vivid red cabochon cut center stone surrounded by approximately 25 carats of pavé round brilliant diamonds and multi-row pearl strands set in 18K yellow gold. 207.42 grams, 1.5" wide and 3.5" diameter.

This piece is a cuff choker, and is designed to fit most neck sizes.

This choker necklace is one of the most architecturally complex and materially substantial fine jewelry pieces imaginable — a wide, flexible 18K yellow gold construction incorporating five rows of pearls running the full circumference, framed top and bottom by continuous pavé-set diamond borders, and culminating in a dramatic floral-quatrefoil center mounting that showcases the massive ruby cabochon. At 207.42 grams of solid 18K yellow gold, this piece carries the physical weight and presence of a museum-quality high jewelry object, resting magnificently at the base of the neck as a true collector's choker. The center plaque's ornate diamond pavé frame with geometric cutwork gallery is a feat of hand-craftsmanship that presents the ruby center like a jeweled crown against the throat.

The 45.51 carat pear-shaped ruby cabochon is among the rarest and most significant ruby specimens found in fine jewelry — GRS-confirmed unheated, a designation that in this size category is extraordinarily exceptional, as nearly all commercially available rubies of any quality undergo heat treatment to improve color. At over 26mm in length, this cabochon displays the rich, saturated red that defines fine ruby, with the smooth polished dome amplifying the stone's natural glow and internal fluorescence beautifully against the neckline. The approximately 755 round brilliant diamonds totaling approximately 25 carats blanketing the necklace body and frame provide a continuous field of white sparkle that intensifies the ruby's red by vivid contrast. The multi-row cultured pearl strands woven through the center bands add luminous organic softness that balances the diamond brilliance and gold weight, making this choker one of the most complete expressions of high jewelry craftsmanship available.